1. Begin in one corner of the room, and work from left to right with the tongue sides of the boards towards the wall. The gap between the long side and the wall can be adjusted later when three rows have been laid. Remember that it’s often simpler to start the row of boards at the door.
2. Press the next floor board in at an angle against the first. Continue in the same way along the rest of the first row.
3. Cut the last board in the first row to the correct length, and begin the next row with the left over piece. The end joints between boards must be staggered by a minimum of 500 mm (minimum of 300 mm for 1.2 metre boards). At least every second row of boards must have an end joint.
4. Press the engineered hardwood floor board in at an angle against the board in front. Using the block, lightly tap the board while pressing it down.
5. Push a laying wedge in under the end of the engineered board already laid.
6. Press the end of the next board into position at an angle.
7-8. Using the block, tap on the long side whilst carefully pressing the board down. This will locate it more easily.
9. The gap between the engineered hardwood floor and the walls can be adjusted when three rows have been laid. Place wedges between the hardwood floor and wall.
10. The first row sometimes requires adjustment to suit a wall that is out of true. Draw the contours of the wall on the floor boards. Then detach the boards in the first row by gripping the long side and pulling upwards while tapping gently against the joint. Saw along the line you drew.
11. Then replace the sawn floor boards from left to right. Push the end in first and then long side, as described in points 5-7. Place wedges between the floor and wall.
12. Drill holes in the boards for radiator pipes. The diameter of the holes must be at least 20 mm bigger than the pipe. Cut out according to the illustration. When fitting the board, glue the cut-out in position and cover the holes with pipe collars.
13. If you need to trim an architrave, use a floor board as a guide to get the correct height. If you need to tap the board lengthways, use an end off-cut to protect the joint.
14. The last row of boards must be cut to the correct width. Rest the last board on top of the last but one row of boards, offset towards the wall by about 5 mm. Mark where the saw cut should be, using an offcut with no locking moulding. Lay the cut board. Do the same with the next one. Fit the skirting boards without trapping the floor. Use level mouldings or edge mouldings at transitions to other rooms. If you plan to carry out more building work in the room, remember to protect the floor with moisturepermeable material.
15. If necessary, you can lay boards from any direction. This helps when laying at doors. Proceed as follows if it is not possible to angle a board in under an architrave or low radiator, for example:
15a. Cut away 2/3 of the locking edge.
15b. Glue. Push the board into position. Tip: Although the long sides can be fittted together only by angling in a board, the short ends can be knocked together using a tapping block once the boards are lying flat against the subfloor. This may be necessary at doors, for example, or in other difficult places where the board needs to be slid into place. When a board has to be tapped in lengthways, cut a small off-cut from the end of a board, which then fits into the joint and protects the end of the board from being damaged.